The ‘Lived-In’ Mosaic Museum

In Palermo’s Kalsa district, behind a door on an ordinary street, I found a home that has slowly become something more. Stanze al Genio belongs to Pio Mellina, who has collected hand-painted maiolica tiles since he was 11 years old. In 2008, he opened his rooms to the public, turning a private passion into a ‘house-museum’.

After ringing the doorbell, climbing the apartment block stairs, you’ll find yourself surrounded by tiles from Sicily and Naples, spanning five centuries. They cover almost every surface, with patterns stacked on patterns. Pio’s pantry is full and his cats lounge in the afternoon sun, completely unbothered by the guests and history that surrounds them.